Introduction
Costa Smeralda — the Emerald Coast — is one of those places where the name perfectly captures the reality. The water along this 55-kilometre stretch of northeastern Sardinia’s coastline has a green-tinged clarity that gives it the precise colour of an emerald: not quite turquoise, not quite blue, but a vivid, luminous green-blue that changes hue with depth and angle and has no equal in the Mediterranean.
The coastline was essentially unknown until the early 1960s, when the Aga Khan IV, flying over Sardinia, observed the extraordinary beauty of the northeastern coast and landed his boat to explore. Within a few years he had assembled a consortium of investors, bought the land from local shepherds, and created the Consorzio Costa Smeralda — one of the most successful upscale resort developments in history. The result was Porto Cervo, the main resort centre, and a series of smaller ports and beaches developed with consistent architectural guidelines (low-rise, terracotta and white, integrated with the granite landscape) that prevented the visual chaos of development elsewhere.
The beaches of Costa Smeralda are scattered along the rocky coastline between the small resort towns of Arzachena in the north and Porto Rotondo in the south. Each cove has a different character and name: the famous ones include Spiaggia del Principe (the Prince’s Beach — the Aga Khan’s personal favourite), Liscia Ruja (Red Creek, with reddish granite sand), Capriccioli (sheltered and beautiful), La Celvia, and the beaches of the La Maddalena Archipelago National Park offshore.
The granite rock that forms the entire landscape of this corner of Sardinia — smooth, pink-grey, sculpted by wind and sea into extraordinary formations — is the aesthetic foundation of Costa Smeralda. It frames every beach, emerges from the sea as islands and reefs, and gives the coast its visual signature.
Transport and Access
Getting to Sardinia
Olbia Costa Smeralda Airport (OLB) is the gateway to Costa Smeralda:
- Direct flights from UK (Ryanair, easyJet) in summer season
- Direct flights from Germany, Switzerland, and other European countries
- Year-round flights from Rome, Milan, Turin (Ryanair, easyJet, ITA Airways)
By ferry: Frequent ferry services from Civitavecchia (Rome), Genoa, Livorno, and Naples to Olbia.
From Olbia to Costa Smeralda
The Costa Smeralda begins approximately 15–30 km north of Olbia:
- By car: Essential. Drive north from Olbia on the SS125 (the Aga Khan’s highway) toward Porto Cervo and Arzachena. Allow 20–40 minutes to the main resort areas.
- By water taxi: In summer, boat taxis connect the main beaches.
When to Come
- June and September: The best months. The sea temperature reaches 22–24°C, the Mediterranean light is extraordinary, and the beaches are significantly less crowded than July–August.
- July and August: Peak season. The Costa Smeralda is at its most glamorous — the superyacht fleet arrives, Porto Cervo fills with the international elite, and the beaches are busy. Beautiful but crowded and expensive.
- May and October: Shoulder season with excellent weather. Many businesses are open; fewer visitors.
Where to Stay
Costa Smeralda has some of Italy’s finest hotels:
- Hotel Cala di Volpe: The Aga Khan’s most celebrated architectural achievement — a mock-medieval fishing village built by architect Jacques Couelle, rising from the hillside above a private lagoon. One of the Mediterranean’s great hotel experiences.
- Hotel Romazzino: A classic, elegant Sardinian hotel with a beautiful private beach.
- Hotel Pitrizza: The most intimate of the original Smeralda hotels, with a private saltwater pool at the edge of the sea.
- Villa rental: Private villas throughout the Costa Smeralda offer an alternative to the hotels, popular with families and groups.
Highlights and Activities
La Maddalena Archipelago
The national park archipelago of La Maddalena and Caprera islands — accessible by ferry from Palau (20 km north of Porto Cervo) — has some of the most beautiful beaches in the Mediterranean. Spiaggia Rosa (the famous pink-sand beach on Budelli island) is now strictly protected; the other island beaches (Spargi, Razzoli, Santa Maria) are extraordinary.
Porto Cervo Marina
The Porto Cervo marina is one of the world’s great yacht harbours — up to 700 vessels moored in a spectacular natural inlet. The Piazzetta (the small central square) is the social hub of the Costa Smeralda season, with the finest boutiques, restaurants, and people-watching. The Smeralda Cup sailing regatta in September is one of the Mediterranean’s great sailing events.
Beaches of the Northern Coast
The drive along the SP73 and SP94 coast road from Porto Cervo toward Palau passes through some of the finest beach scenery in the Mediterranean. Stop at Spiaggia del Principe, Liscia Ruja, and Capriccioli for swimming and snorkelling in extraordinary water.
Sardinian Cuisine
The Costa Smeralda has excellent restaurants serving the full range of Sardinian cuisine: bottarga (dried mullet roe), freshly caught swordfish and sea bass, porceddu (roast suckling pig), Sardinian cheeses (Pecorino Sardo), and the island’s distinctive wines (Vermentino white and Cannonau red). Eating well is an essential part of the Costa Smeralda experience.
Good to Know
Is Costa Smeralda only for the very wealthy? The hotels and some restaurants are expensive. But the beaches are public (all Italian beaches are public by law), free to access, and the water is the same regardless of budget. Renting a modest apartment in Arzachena and day-tripping to the beaches is a viable, much more affordable option than staying in the major hotels.
What is the best beach on Costa Smeralda? Spiaggia del Principe (the Prince’s Beach) is generally considered the finest. Liscia Ruja has beautiful reddish granite sand. Capriccioli is sheltered and excellent for families. All are outstanding.
Is the snorkelling good? Excellent. The clarity of the water and the granite rock formations create interesting underwater landscapes. The snorkelling around the rocky headlands between coves is particularly rewarding.