Introduction
The Perhentian Islands — Pulau Perhentian Besar (the large island) and Pulau Perhentian Kecil (the small island) — are among the most beautiful and least-developed significant beach destinations in Southeast Asia. The white sand beaches here are brilliant, the water colour extraordinary, and the coral reefs surrounding both islands support a marine ecosystem that is, by Malaysian standards, in very good health: resident sea turtles, blacktip reef sharks, large schools of reef fish, and good coral coverage on the rocky sections.
Besar (the larger island) is the more resort-oriented — accommodation ranges from mid-range chalets to upscale beach villas, the restaurants are slightly better, and the atmosphere is quieter and more family-friendly. Kecil (the small island) is more backpacker-oriented, particularly at Long Beach (Pantai Panjang) on its eastern coast — a long, beautiful beach with guesthouses, beach bars, and a social scene that attracts young international travellers.
The most celebrated beach on Besar is Teluk Pauh (Coral Bay) on the western coast — a sheltered, calm cove with very clear water and good snorkelling directly from the shore. The eastern beaches are more surf-exposed but beautiful. The Perhentians’ multiple beaches on both islands mean that whatever the wind direction, a calm swimming beach is available — simply take a boat to the sheltered side of the relevant island.
The sea turtles are the wildlife highlight. Green turtles and hawksbill turtles nest on several beaches of both islands, and encounters with turtles while snorkelling — the Perhentians have one of the most reliable sea turtle snorkelling experiences in Malaysia — are a near-daily occurrence for visitors who spend time in the water.
The islands are car-free. Movement between accommodation, beaches, and islands is by water taxi — the small wooden motorboats that zip between all points for modest per-person fees. The resulting atmosphere is peaceful: no traffic noise, no road, just the sound of the sea.
Access and Transport
Getting to the Perhentians
The Perhentians are accessible only by boat from the mainland jetty at Kuala Besut:
From Kuala Besut: The 45-minute speedboat crossing delivers visitors to the islands. Speedboats run from approximately 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. (times vary seasonally). The last boat from the islands to the mainland is typically around 4–5 p.m.
Getting to Kuala Besut:
- By road from Kota Bharu: Approximately 2 hours. From Kota Bharu Airport (IATA: KBR), connected to Kuala Lumpur (Firefly, AirAsia).
- By road from Kuala Terengganu: Approximately 2.5 hours. Kuala Terengganu Airport (IATA: TGG), connected to Kuala Lumpur.
- By bus from Kuala Lumpur: Overnight coaches run to Kuala Besut (approximately 8 hours) — a common budget option.
The Islands Access Season
The Perhentians are accessible only November/December to September. The northeast monsoon (October to mid-November) closes the islands completely — seas are too rough for the speedboat crossing, and all businesses close. The islands reopen in mid-November or December depending on the year. Check exact dates before planning travel.
Best Time to Visit
- March to August: Considered the best months. Calm seas, good visibility (15–25 metres in good conditions), water temperature 28–29°C. May and June are among the clearest months for diving and snorkelling.
- December to February: Early season. The monsoon has recently lifted, seas are calmer, but visibility may be lower from monsoon sediment. Increasing visitor numbers through January.
- September: The tail end of the season. Good conditions but some businesses begin preparing to close.
- October to mid-November: Closed season. Do not travel.
The sea turtle nesting season is May to September, with peak activity in May–July.
Lodging Options
Perhentian Besar (the large island) — higher-end accommodation:
- Tuna Bay Island Resort: A well-regarded property with comfortable chalets and a good beach position.
- Bubu Resort: One of Besar’s better-established mid-range options.
- The Reef: A stylish recent addition with good facilities.
Perhentian Kecil (the small island) — more budget-oriented:
- Long Beach (Pantai Panjang): The main backpacker beach, with numerous chalet guesthouses.
- Mira Beach Resort: One of the better options on Kecil.
Activities
Snorkelling with Sea Turtles
The defining experience. Guided snorkelling trips, or simply snorkelling from the beach in the right areas, produce reliable sea turtle encounters — green turtles feeding on seagrass beds, hawksbill turtles moving through the reef. The turtle sanctuary at Teluk Dalam (on the island’s sheltered western coast) is the most reliable snorkelling spot. Water shoes are helpful for the rocky entry points.
Diving
The Perhentians are an excellent and affordable dive destination. PADI courses are widely available at very competitive prices. Popular dive sites include:
- Shark Point: Reliable nurse shark and blacktip reef shark sightings in relatively shallow water.
- Sugar Wreck: A small sunken boat wreck colonised by marine life.
- D’Lagoon: Calm, sheltered cove with easy diving conditions, excellent for beginners.
- Various walls and rocky formations with good coral coverage.
Long Beach (Kecil) Social Scene
Long Beach on Kecil is the social hub of the Perhentians — beach bonfires in the evenings, beach bar socialising, and the sociable atmosphere of a young international backpacker community. The beach itself is beautiful, and the social scene is relaxed and informal.
Island Hopping by Water Taxi
The inexpensive water taxis allow exploration of both islands’ multiple beaches throughout the day. A day of island hopping — Coral Bay on Besar in the morning, Long Beach on Kecil for lunch, and a northern Besar beach for the afternoon — is a good way to experience the islands’ range.
Practical Questions
Which island is better — Besar or Kecil? Depends on priorities. Besar is quieter, more comfortable, better for couples and families, and has the best snorkelling at Teluk Pauh and the western coast. Kecil is more social, cheaper, has the iconic Long Beach, and is better for solo travellers and backpackers. Many visitors split their time between both, crossing by water taxi.
Is the snorkelling really as good as people say? Yes, for sea turtle snorkelling specifically. For coral quality, the reefs have suffered some bleaching events but remain good by Malaysian standards. The turtle encounters are reliable and are the outstanding wildlife highlight of the islands.
Can you see whale sharks at the Perhentians? Occasionally. Whale shark encounters are not common but occur. More reliably, thresher sharks, hammerheads (at depth), and various reef shark species are seen on dives.
Is the drinking water on the islands safe? Drink only bottled water on the islands — tap water is not suitable for drinking. Fresh water supply on the islands relies on collected rainwater and brought-in supplies, which can be limited in dry periods.