Introduction
Koh Mak is the Thailand that disappeared from Koh Samui and Koh Phi Phi twenty years ago: an island of approximately 16 square kilometres with no traffic lights, no 7-Elevens on every corner, no beer bars with blaring music, and almost no package tourism. The island’s remote position in the Gulf of Thailand — 40 km from the mainland port of Laem Ngop, near the Cambodian border — and the relative difficulty of access compared to the Samui-Pha-Ngan archipelago have protected it from the development that transformed Thailand’s more accessible islands.
The island has one small main village, a handful of resorts and guesthouses, coconut and rubber plantations covering most of the interior, and a coastline with several excellent beaches. The largest and most developed beach is Ao Kao on the northwestern coast — a kilometre-long stretch of white sand with calm, clear water and a low-key collection of beach bars and bungalow operations behind it. The northeastern coast has several quieter beaches including Ao Suan Yai, and the southern coast has more rugged, largely deserted stretches.
The water around Koh Mak is shallow and generally calm in the November–May season — the Gulf of Thailand’s eastern side is sheltered from the worst of the monsoon, and the coral reefs on the island’s eastern side are accessible without long boat journeys. The underwater world around Koh Mak includes coral gardens, sea turtles, and the usual cast of tropical fish species that make the Gulf of Thailand reefs rewarding for snorkellers and casual divers.
The adjacent Koh Kood (10 km south) — larger, more spectacularly beautiful, more expensive — and Koh Chang (the largest island in the region, 30 km north — more developed and better known) bracket Koh Mak’s position in the Gulf archipelago. The three islands attract different travellers: Koh Chang for those wanting more facilities and entertainment, Koh Kood for luxury seekers, and Koh Mak for those who specifically want to be left alone by the mechanisms of mass tourism.
Getting There
Getting to Koh Mak
The nearest mainland port is Laem Ngop, near Trat town in Trat Province:
- To Trat town: Buses from Bangkok’s Eastern Bus Terminal (Ekkamai) to Trat — approximately 5.5–6 hours. Minibuses are also available from Bangkok. Alternatively, Bangkok Airways flies from Bangkok Suvarnabhumi to Trat Airport (code TDX) — a 1-hour flight.
- From Trat to Laem Ngop: Local songthaew (shared pickup truck) or taxi, approximately 20–30 minutes.
Ferries from Laem Ngop to Koh Mak:
- Multiple ferry operators serve Koh Mak from Laem Ngop, including Boonsiri Ferry and Koh Mak Express Boat
- Journey time approximately 2 hours (high-speed) to 3 hours (slow boat)
- Ferries operate daily during the high season (November–May) with reduced frequency in the monsoon months
From Koh Chang: Speedboat transfers between Koh Chang and Koh Mak are available seasonally, taking approximately 1 hour.
Best Time to Visit
Koh Mak sits in the Gulf of Thailand on the eastern (Cambodian) side:
- November to May: The dry season. This is the peak time — calm seas, sunshine, and the best conditions for snorkelling and swimming. The island fills up (relatively speaking — it never really gets crowded) between December and March.
- June to October: Monsoon season. Rain is frequent and the sea can be choppy. Many resorts close partially or fully in September and October — the quietest and wettest months. Some visitors enjoy the monsoon Koh Mak: cooler, cheap, atmospheric, and genuinely empty.
- The Gulf of Thailand advantage: Unlike the Andaman Sea (Phuket, Krabi, Phi Phi), which has its dry season from November to April, parts of the Gulf of Thailand’s eastern side can be visited slightly later into the year. Koh Mak in June can still have reasonable weather — but July onwards is generally wet.
Where to Stay
Koh Mak’s accommodation is intentionally low-key:
- Koh Mak Resort: One of the island’s most established properties, with bungalows on Ao Kao beach and a good restaurant.
- Seavana Beach Resort: A comfortable mid-range option with a beach location.
- Bamboo Hideaway: A popular eco-resort in the island’s interior, known for its responsible tourism approach.
- TK Huts and various small bungalow operations: Basic, cheap, and often charming. The Koh Mak bungalow scene is the closest Thailand has to its beach culture of 20 years ago.
- Koh Mak Co-op: The island cooperative that supports local businesses; their accommodation listings include community-run guesthouses.
Things to Do
Cycling the Island
Koh Mak has a coastal road — unpaved in stretches — that can be circumnavigated by bicycle in 2–3 hours. Bicycle hire is available from beach resorts and in the village. The ride through coconut plantations, past deserted beaches and fishing villages, and along the mangrove-edged interior is one of the most pleasant ways to spend a day on any Thai island.
Snorkelling and Diving
The reefs around Koh Mak, and particularly around the nearby small island of Koh Rayang, offer good snorkelling and diving. Visibility is better than Thailand’s more famous dive sites in the Andaman Sea, and the relative lack of boat traffic has helped the reefs maintain reasonable health. The dive centres on Koh Mak run day trips to the best sites, and beginner certification courses are available.
Kayaking the Mangroves
The eastern coast of Koh Mak has mangrove channels navigable by kayak. Mangrove ecosystems are critical nursery habitats for the marine life of the surrounding reefs, and paddling through them in the early morning — when kingfishers, herons, and other birds are most active — is one of the island’s quietest and most rewarding activities. Kayaks are available for hire from various points on the island.
Visiting Koh Kood
Speedboats from Koh Mak make the 10-km crossing to Koh Kood (30–45 minutes) — the most beautiful of the Trat archipelago islands, with waterfalls, pristine beaches, and the luxury resort area at Ao Phrao. The Klong Chao waterfall and the stilted fishing village at Ao Salat are Koh Kood’s highlights. A day trip combines easily with the Koh Mak base.
Doing Nothing in Particular
The principal activity at Koh Mak is the restorative practice of beach idleness: reading in a hammock, watching the sea change colour through the afternoon, eating fresh fish at the beach restaurant, walking the shore at sunset. The island is designed — through its relative inaccessibility and intentional under-development — for this kind of purposeful inaction. It is harder to find on Thai islands than you might imagine.
Good to Know
Is Koh Mak suitable for families? Yes — the calm water on the main beaches, the car-free (or near car-free) environment, the bicycle-friendly roads, and the relaxed pace make it an excellent choice for families with children. The lack of nightlife and beach bar culture is actually an advantage for family visits.
How crowded does Koh Mak get in high season? By Thai island standards, Koh Mak remains quiet even in peak season. It does not receive the volume of visitors that Koh Samui or Koh Phi Phi handle on a busy weekend. The island’s accommodation capacity is limited and its infrastructure doesn’t lend itself to mass tourism.
Is there good food on Koh Mak? The island’s restaurants are simple — Thai food, seafood, and basic international options at the beach bars. The fresh seafood is excellent and inexpensive. Don’t expect sophisticated dining — the best meals are simple fresh fish grilled at the beach.
Can you visit Koh Mak as a day trip from Koh Chang? Technically possible by speedboat (approximately 1 hour each way), but the journey time makes it a rushed experience. If you are based on Koh Chang and have a free day, Koh Mak rewards an overnight stay minimum. A day trip would give you a few hours on the island between the boat connections.