The Beach
Nosy Be — “Big Island” in Malagasy — is the jewel of Madagascar’s northwestern coast: a volcanic island of 320 square kilometres in the Mozambique Channel, fragrant with ylang-ylang distilleries, surrounded by pristine coral reefs, and possessed of a beach in its northern tip that ranks among the finest in the Indian Ocean. Andilana Beach, on the northern coast of Nosy Be, is the island at its most beautiful: a kilometre of powdery white sand framed by coconut palms, with the turquoise of the Mozambique Channel shading to deep blue offshore and the silhouettes of smaller offshore islands (Nosy Iranja, Nosy Komba, Nosy Tanikely) on the horizon.
Madagascar is the fourth largest island in the world and one of the most biologically extraordinary places on Earth — approximately 90% of its wildlife is endemic, found nowhere else, the result of 160 million years of evolutionary isolation after the island separated from the African and Indian landmasses. The lemurs, the chameleons (Madagascar has half the world’s species), the fossas, the baobabs, the ravenala palms — these are species that exist nowhere else, and visiting Madagascar means experiencing a natural world of a completely distinct character from anywhere in Africa or Asia.
Nosy Be is the most accessible part of this natural world to combine with a beach holiday. The island’s own forests have brown lemurs (Eulemur fulvus) visible in hotel gardens; the offshore snorkelling and diving delivers encounters with sea turtles (green and hawksbill), whale sharks (June–September), manta rays, humpback whales (July–September), and the extraordinary coral reef communities of the Mozambique Channel. The marine biodiversity here is among the highest in the western Indian Ocean.
The human dimension of Nosy Be adds further character. The island’s population includes Malagasy, Comorian, Indian, and French Creole communities — a product of the island’s history as a French colonial outpost, a dhow trading node, and now a developing international tourism destination. The ylang-ylang flower (used in Chanel No. 5 and other perfumes) is distilled on the island; the fishing villages have an Indo-Pacific character that feels unlike anything in Africa or Asia; and the fresh seafood — Mozambique Channel lobster, zebu beef, and the extraordinary variety of tropical fruit — is excellent.
Access and Transport
Getting to Nosy Be
Fascene Airport (NOS) on Nosy Be:
- Direct charter flights from Paris (Air Austral, Corsair — seasonal)
- Domestic connections from Antananarivo (Antananarivo–Nosy Be on Air Madagascar/Madagascar Airlines or other domestic carriers — approximately 1.5 hours)
- Some connections from Réunion and Mayotte
From Antananarivo (Tana): Antananarivo (TAnanarivo, code TNR) is the main international gateway:
- Direct flights from Paris (Air Madagascar, Air France — approximately 11 hours)
- Connections from Nairobi, Johannesburg, Mauritius, and Réunion
Note: Madagascar’s transport infrastructure is developing; flight schedules and airline reliability can be variable. Allow flexibility and book domestic connections with reliable operators.
When to Come
- May to November: The dry season — the best time for beach, diving, and wildlife. Temperatures 25–30°C, little rain, and calm seas. July–September is the best season for whale shark encounters and humpback whale watching.
- December to April: The hot, wet season — cyclone risk is present in the Mozambique Channel. Rain is frequent but typically comes in heavy afternoon showers. The marine environment is still rich; some coral bleaching risk in the hottest months.
- June to September: The whale shark season (feeding on plankton blooms) and humpback whale season (migration and breeding in the Mozambique Channel). This is by most accounts the best time for the marine wildlife dimension of the Nosy Be visit.
Hotels and Resorts
Nosy Be has accommodation across the range:
- Constance Tsarabanjina: A private island resort in the Mitsio archipelago north of Nosy Be — one of the Indian Ocean’s most exclusive retreats. Accessible by motorboat from Nosy Be.
- Hôtel Princesse Bora Lodge and Spa: A beautiful boutique resort on Nosy Be’s eastern coast, with excellent dive centre and wildlife encounters.
- Coco Lodge and Vanilla Garden Resort: Mid-range options with comfortable rooms and good restaurant/pool facilities.
- Various guesthouses in Hell-Ville (Andoany): The island’s main town has budget accommodation.
- Directly near Andilana Beach: Several small resorts and bungalow operations in the northern beach area.
Exploring the Area
Snorkelling and Diving
The Mozambique Channel reef systems around Nosy Be are extraordinary:
- Nosy Tanikely Marine Reserve: A small island 8 km south of Nosy Be with pristine snorkelling — giant sea turtles, abundant reef fish, and excellent coral. One of the best beginner snorkel sites in the western Indian Ocean.
- Whale shark trips (June–September): The open water north of Nosy Be hosts whale shark aggregations. Snorkel trips put you in the water with the world’s largest fish — one of the ocean’s great wildlife encounters.
- Dive sites: Multiple excellent dive sites around the offshore islands and along the continental shelf edge — walls, pinnacles, and drift dives with excellent visibility (20–30 m).
Humpback Whale Watching
From July to September, humpback whales pass through the Mozambique Channel on their breeding migration. Whale watching boat trips from Nosy Be have a high sighting success rate and the encounters — breaching, tail slapping, mother-calf pairs — are extraordinary. Madagascar’s Mozambique Channel is one of the world’s most important humpback whale habitats.
Lemur Encounter on Nosy Komba
Nosy Komba (the “Lemur Island”) is a 30-minute boat trip from Nosy Be. The black lemurs (Eulemur macaco) on the island have been habituated to human presence and will sit on your arm to eat bananas — one of the most characterful wildlife encounters available. The island has good snorkelling on its reef and a craft market in the village.
Ylang-Ylang Distillery Visit
The ylang-ylang flower plantations and distilleries that give Nosy Be the nickname “île aux parfums” (Perfume Island) can be visited. The fragrant yellow flowers are harvested and steam-distilled to produce the essential oil used in high perfumery. A distillery tour combines agricultural, cultural, and olfactory interest in an experience unique to Nosy Be.
Nosy Iranja Day Trip
Two tiny islands connected by a sandbar — one with a lighthouse, one inhabited by a small Malagasy fishing community — approximately 2 hours by boat from Nosy Be. The sandbar between them is one of the most beautiful stretches of white sand in the Indian Ocean. The boat journey provides whale and dolphin sightings.
Good to Know
Is Madagascar safe to visit? Madagascar faces genuine challenges — infrastructure is limited, poverty is widespread, and petty crime in urban areas (including Antananarivo) requires vigilance. Nosy Be itself is relatively safe for tourists, with a well-developed tourism infrastructure and active local tourism police. Standard travel precautions and using reputable local operators are essential.
Do I need malaria medication for Nosy Be? Yes — malaria is present in Madagascar including Nosy Be. Consult your GP or travel health clinic for antimalarial advice and take mosquito precautions (repellent, long sleeves at dusk, nets where provided).
Is Nosy Be for experienced divers only? No — the snorkelling at Nosy Tanikely is excellent for beginners and non-divers, and the beach swimming is safe and warm. The more advanced dive sites (walls, drift dives) are for experienced divers. PADI certification courses are available from local dive centres.